Ke nuku o e 'Uhane ('Uhane's rant)

I'm a noctural psycho where ideas/ imagination seems to explode after reading the surf report and the mind is twitching to surf. I wake up from my insomniac comatose at 5 in the morning about to be hyped on starbucks, granola bars and OCD adrenaline running through my already hyperactive mindset just amping out to na palapalai in the speakers as I drive down PCH to hit a morning session at the huntington pier where at the crack of dawn I am wetsuited up, board is waxed & big wave prayers answered..The blood is pumping as my feet pass the cold sand and I leash up to puncture through the pier out into where destiny awaits - I'm talking about a south swell that separates the men from the boy toys-you could leave your waifer thin mini boards at home. After 5 hours of sheer bliss and countless run ins with donkeys who play in the inside and shoulder hopping flappers that cant surf worth sh..t all that remains is the pleasure of paddling, droppin down a green face hold your edge get barreled off your ass and just get spit out as the sun comes up and the day heralds "good Morning." From that moment all other BS just floats away and the whole day is nothing short of what the term "stoke" represents. While others are landlocked only a few of us truly understand what the word "bliss" truly means. If ur not a surfer then your only a pretender. Those that question just don't understand...Can I get a clue for 1000 please...
My battle lines are a sign of I just had the best fricken day at the beach where the ocean and I danced in unison and bid our farewells until we meet again. They are the opening epilogues to another outrageous story that I'm going to tell people next time I see them at hula...
Aloha